When you hear that thumpa-thumpa-thumpa sound while driving down the road, you know one of your tires is flat. And that means you’ll soon be changing it yourself, if you’re not lucky enough to have access to roadside service for your vehicle.

Just study these three video clips and follow these six simple steps, and you’ll be able to get your vehicle in the air in short order without hurting it or—more important—you.

If you’re on a highway and near an exit, take it. The goal is to get off the road entirely and on to solid, level ground—such as a parking lot—where you can use a car jack safely.

If you’re on a highway and can’t get off, you’ll just have to find the safest location you can. you can’t drive for miles on a flat tire without destroying it and possibly damaging your vehicle.

Make sure you’re on a solid, level surface, so that the jack doesn’t sink into the ground rather than lifting the car. A soft surface might also cause the jack to lean to one side as it’s lifting the car, which can cause the car to fall.

Make sure the vehicle’s engine is off, that it’s in park, and that the parking brake is engaged. If you happen to have something that you can use to block a tire (a brick, a piece of wood, or a large rock will do), place it under the tire at the opposite corner of the car from the corner you’re going to jack up (e.g., if you’re jacking up the right front, block the left rear tire).

If you have passengers, it’s a good idea to have them exit the car, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

After you find it, you need to locate the jacking points on the car’s body, where the jack engages. The jacking points for most vehicles are reinforced metal ribs specifically designed to safely lift the vehicle.

They’re located under the car’s rocker panels, just behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels. In the above video, our Car and Driver tech is pointing to the right front jacking point on the Hyundai Sonata sedan we’re about to lift.

Most car jacks have a slot at the top, on their engagement flange, that slips onto the jack point’s reinforced rib—but your car may have a different setup, so check your owner’s manual to be sure you understand exactly how your jack works with the jacking point. In the above video, our tech needs to spin the jack down first, so it can fit under the car before he begins jacking it up.

Take your time and make sure that the jack remains positioned straight up and down as it lifts the car. You don’t want the jack leaning, because it won’t hold the car securely that way.

This will ensure that the car cannot fall on you, should the jack slip or fail entirely.

This is the type of jack used at repair shops and in the pits at car races, because it’s much stronger and more stable than a car’s onboard jack. A jack stand placed in the proper position is pictured below, alongside a floor jack (with its handle removed).

When you’re ready to lower the car, slowly unwind the jack handle in the opposite direction (counterclockwise) until the car’s tire is firmly in contact with the ground and you can remove the jack. Return the jack to its storage location, secure it, and you’re almost ready to roll.

Rich Ceppos has evaluated automobiles and automotive technology during a career that has encompassed 10 years at General Motors, two stints at Car and Driver totaling 20 years, and thousands of miles logged in racing cars. He was in music school when he realized what he really wanted to do in life and, somehow, it’s worked out.

was an executive vice president at Campbell Marketing & Communications. worked in GM’s product-development area.

He has raced continuously since college, held SCCA and IMSA pro racing licenses, and has competed in the 24 Hours of Daytona. He currently ministers to a 1999 Miata, and he appreciates that none of his younger colleagues have yet uttered “Okay, Boomer” when he tells one of his stories about the crazy old days at C/D.

Got a project that you need a jack for, like changing a tyre or checking your exhaust. We’ve got the information you need on how to choose the right one and how to use it safely.

“*” indicates required fields. There are two main types of car jacks that you can choose to use on your car at home: scissor jacks and floor jacks.

Let’s take a closer look at these two car jacks below.

They normally have four wheels so you can move it, as well as a long handle that lets the operator pump the hydraulic lift to get the car off the ground. Floor jacks are useful if you regularly work on your car in a home garage, and are also great for lifting cars on to jack stands (which we’ll get to later).

Scissor jacks are small and portable, so they’re better if you’re looking for something to carry in your boot for roadside repairs. In fact, some car manufacturers supply a scissor jack with a spare wheel, so you might have one anyway.

That’s because you need to use them on specific lifting points on the car, which you can find in your owner’s manual. Unlike floor jacks which use a hydraulic pump, scissor jacks use a simple screw mechanism to provide the lifting power.

The jack you choose will depend on what kind of maintenance and repairs you normally carry out on your car. If you do a lot of your own maintenance work, like changing the oil filter and brake pads, we’d recommend a floor jack.

Car jacks are easy to use once you know the basics. Here, we tell you how to use both floor and scissor jacks to lift your car safely, and how to put your car on to jack stands.

You can also use chocks to stop the wheels from moving, but they’re not always necessary. Jack stands are handy if you’re working under your car for long periods and need extra stability.

Here’s how to jack your car up on to a set of jack stands.

Here are some extra safety tips: From flat tyres to non-starting engines, Holts develop car repair products that are designed to get you back on the road when the worst should happen.

Anyone who wishes to perform their own maintenance on their car will, at some point, need to jack it up to access the important vehicle systems under the body. For both your own safety and the safety of your vehicle, it is crucial that you understand how to properly jack up the vehicle.

Here’s a quick look at the processes you should follow when jacking up your vehicle.

Instead, make sure you’re on a hard, flat surface, away from potential hazards or moving vehicles. Use a concrete driveway or garage floor.

Use wheel chocks in front of each wheel opposite from the end of the car you will be lifting. If you do not have chocks you can substitute with wooden wedges or bricks.

There are several spots on the vehicle body where the vehicle can be jacked up safely. If you lift anywhere outside of those locations, the car might experience damage to the frame, or slip off the jack.

Usually there’s one on each side behind the front wheels and in front of the back wheels, close to the rocker panels. There may be central jack points located behind the bumpers (front and rear).

You might also notice a cutout in the plastic that exposes metal, or even the word “jack” labeled on the undercarriage. Slide the jack right below the jack point.

The exact process of raising the jack can vary depending on the kind of jack you have. But regardless of the type of jack, you can make some final adjustments to the position of the jack as you raise it so it lines up properly with the jack point.

Once the jack contacts the underside of the vehicle it will become difficult to raise. Continue to work the jack up until the corner of the car starts to leave the ground.

Listen for any sounds or movement while shifting the car, and if you hear anything out of the ordinary check to make sur ethe vehicle is still in position on the jack. Never put any part of your body under the vehicle while lifting the vehicle.

There are countless horror stories out there of clueless wrenchers who relied on jacks alone, or unsuitable supports like a concrete block or stack of wood, and it cost them. Cars weigh a lot, and are a lot stronger than your head.

Jack stands are generally affordable and readily available at most auto stores. Their two biggest advantages are their compact size, and the fact that they leave the wheel well free for doing brake or shock work.

Wheel cribs are our #1 choice for vehicle support, particularly if you need to work on the underbody. Not only are they 100% solid, they are designed to follow the natural curve of tires to ensure maximum contact and stability when the vehicle is on them.

Read more about How to Choose a Wheel Crib, and learn why they might be a better choice for your garage or shop. When you’ve completed the work you need to perform under the vehicle, you can lower the car gradually and then remove the jack.

Follow these steps and you will not have to worry about any safety issues when working on your classic car. Be safe and enjoy your garage time.

Summer is road trip season, which often means it’s also car maintenance season. If you’ve just driven halfway across the country and back, you’ll want to change the engine oil and rotate your tires.

Here’s what you need to know. The only tool you need is a jack.

We recommend using the factory jack if you’re simply changing a flat tire, but it’s wise to invest in a hydraulic unit if you need to crawl under your car on a regular basis. Here are some of the most common types of jacks:

Floor jacks and ramps are relatively affordable and available at every auto parts store or online. For example, a set of RhinoRamps costs less than $50, while a traditional floor jack rated at 3 tons (6,000 pounds) can be bought for around $100.

In May 2020, the company recalled 1.7 million jack stands that can suddenly collapse due to a defect. It then recalled the replacement stands it gave its customers.

First, ask yourself which part of your car needs to go up in the air. For instance, if you need to change your oil, you should be raising the end of the car that houses the engine.

If you just need to change a tire, it’s the corner that’s flat that needs to get off the ground. Additionally, keep in mind there are four wheels, so four points where the vehicle’s total weight is distributed.

Floor jacks and stands vary in weight capacity, so read the fine print carefully before you buy to ensure what you take home is sturdy enough for the job. Always raise your car on level ground.

It’s also best to park it on a hard surface, like tarmac, instead of on grass or on a dirt road. Straighten the steering wheel, put the car in park (or in first gear if you have a manual transmission.

This keeps it from moving unexpectedly when you’re under it. On every car, there are specific spots where a jack plate is welded to the body.

You can find this information in your owner’s manual, or online. Jack points are normally behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels.

In our case, it was in the middle of the crossmember. Place the optional pieces of wood on the jack plate to wedge in between the car’s jack point and the jack itself.

If you’re using a traditional floor jack, make sure the release valve is closed, which is typically done by rotating the main lever clockwise. Then, start raising the jack until it’s in contact with the part of the car going up in the air and check that nothing has moved before you go further.

Watch how the car moves as you jack it up and stop immediately if it’s tilting to one side. If everything checks out, raise it high enough so that you have enough space to work.

Firmly shove the car atop the jack when the vehicle reaches the height you need so that you ensure full stability. The whole reason you’re using a car jack is to lift the car up.

Use the jack stands to secure the vehicle in its position. Make sure to put the jack stands in the correct place before you crank up the jack and allow your car to put its weight down on them.

You cannot overlook this step, as it can be dangerous if ignored. If you are replacing a wheel, make sure to put it back on with the lug nuts you tightened with your hands.

Once you’re done, go back to steps five and six and perform them in backward order. If you’re using a standard jack, you’ll need to use a counterclockwise motion to open the release valve.

In all cases, it’s crucial to perform these actions slowly and carefully.

Now that you know how to use your jack, you’re prepared to take on any jack-requiring situation that comes your way.

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This article applies to the Honda Accord (1992-2000). Any car owner with aspirations of being a home mechanic will need to learn how to properly jack up a car.

A factory scissor jack will get the job done, but an aftermarket jack will make the job much faster and easier. Other than that, it’s important to have something to block the wheels, use the correct jack point, and acquire some jack stands to properly secure the car once it’s jacked up.

Place a pair of wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling backwards. Look for the front jack point, and place your jack underneath it.

The factory jack shows four other jack points, including two behind the front tires and two just behind the rear tires. Proceed to jack the car up to the desired height.

“Chock” basically means to block them with something large and heavy, so the car doesn’t move. Ramps, cinder blocks or large pieces of wood also work well.

Jack stands are height adjustable by pulling the lever up, and then adjusting the length of the support rod by moving it up or down. Once you have the stands in place, carefully and slowly lower the jack until the car is securely resting on the jack stands.

Figure 1 BMW E60 models have 4 solid plastic jacking pads, slightly behind the front wheels and slightly in front of the rear wheels (green arrows). Figure 2 The jack pads are designed to support the vehicle from below when using a hoist, hydraulic jack, or when changing a tire in an emergency situation.

Figure 3 If a jack pad is missing, replace it before jacking the vehicle. Otherwise body damage can occur.

The jack pad (yellow arrow) snaps into a hole (green arrow) in the body. Figure 4 To replace an existing jack pad, lever the jack pad out of the body.

If needed, tap it in using a soft-faced hammer. Figure 5 To jack the vehicle, park the vehicle on level solid ground.

Install wheel chocks to block the wheels that are not being jacked. This will help to keep the vehicle from unexpectedly rolling.

Wheel chocks are a must. When jacking the front of the vehicle, block the rear wheels.

The main photo shows the square support with the engine splash shield and reinforcement plate removed. The inset with green arrow shows the square support with the engine splash shield and reinforcement plate installed.

When jacking the rear of the vehicle, block the front wheels. Then jack on the control arm (red arrow) raising one side at a time.

If you need to jack the entire rear at the same time, you can use the subframe (green arrow). However, I would avoid this method unless absolutely necessary, as the subframe is narrow and does not allow a large contact area for the jack.

If you are unsure of using the suggested jacking points, I suggest checking you owner’s manual and the most current BMW repair information. Figure 6 Jacking front of vehicle: When using a hydraulic floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle, place the hydraulic floor jack under the square subframe support (green arrow).

Once you reach the desired height, install the jack stands at the proper jack pad locations to support the vehicle. Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands until the full vehicle weight is supported.

When lowering your vehicle, raise it off the jack stands. Remove the jack stands from beneath the vehicle and slowly lower the vehicle to the ground.

Figure 7 Jacking rear of vehicle: When using a hydraulic floor jack to lift the rear of the vehicle, place the hydraulic floor jack under a control arm (green arrow), raising one side at a time. Once one side is supported by a jack stand, raise the opposite side.

Once you reach the desired height, install the jack stand at the jack pad locations to support the vehicle. Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands until the full vehicle weight is supported.

When lowering your vehicle, raise it off the jack stands. Remove the jack stands from beneath the vehicle and slowly lower the vehicle to the ground.

The abundance of knowledge on the internet has made us really independent, with many people solving their issues with DIY solutions. In today’s age, we can find car spare parts and tools in any shop, with car owners experimenting to understand their vehicle better.

After all, your car is a piece of complicated machinery and needs to be handled that way.

One of the most obvious reasons people use a car jack is to change a tyre. But the truth is, if you want to access any car parts tucked underneath, you are going to need a car jack.

Having a Car Jack in your garage always comes in handy, no matter if you’re an ace mechanic, a novice with automobiles or simply a curious person who is interested in the world beneath the car body. Before you understand how to use a car jack, you must know the different types of jacks available.

Also Read: Full Car Service: What Does a Full Car Service include.

Mechanical Jacks, as the name suggests, makes use of pure mechanical methods to lift the car. These kinds of car jacks may involve using a screw to raise or a ratcheting system to lift the vehicle slowly.

Hydraulic Jack makes use of a horizontally or vertically positioned hydraulic cylinder to lift large objects. The hydraulic system makes use of the fact that liquids don’t compress easily.

Once the oil flows back into the reservoir, the jack will compress. Hydraulic Jacks include bottle jacks and floor jacks.

Bottle Jacks are one of the most common and versatile kinds available on the market. To operate, you need to pump the handle up and down, and the hydraulic bottle jack lifts the heaviest vehicle without much effort.

Its modest size makes it very convenient for garage storage, and its simplicity of usage allows even the most novice car owners to use it. For extra stability, you can opt for models that have a wide base.

Scissor Jack is probably what you have in your garage if you have never upgraded the tools. It is the most common and oldest style of car jacks and resembles the make of scissor arms.

They mostly come along with the cars and spare tyre. Make sure you check your trunk before going out to buy a new one.

Apart from being extremely simple to use, scissor jacks take up a minor space in your garage and are incredibly lightweight and portable. Unlike the hydraulic jacks, there is no worry of fluid leakage, replacement, and they demand minimal maintenance.

You have probably seen a floor jack in car movies or shows, where they bring out a device with wheels and conveniently place it in position. It has long arms that make it easy to be moved around.

Floor Jack and Trolley Jack are pretty similar, with the major difference being in their lifting capacities. Trolley Jacks are more suited for low-profile minimum height vehicles like sport and luxury cars.

For example, Floor jacks are more portable and lightweight, whereas a trolley jack is constructed with steel and release spring. A Jack with wheels is probably one of the coolest devices you can have in the garage, and they make lifting the cars a handy task.

High Lift Jack is not designed for every vehicle and everyday use. It is only when you need the maximum lift, especially for off-roaders and trailer owners.

A word of caution. high lift jacks have a tiny footplate that makes them very unsteady.

To put it simply, you don’t need a high lift car jack if you are not an off-roader. Before we move on to carjack use, let’s clear the confusion between Hi-Lift and High Lift Jacks.

All Hi-Lift jacks are high-lift jacks, but not all high-lift jacks are Hi-Lift jacks. Also Read: Squeaky Car Brakes: How to Stop Car Brakes from Squeaking.

It is very easy to use a car jack once you understand how it functions. In this section, we will be looking at how to use floor and scissor jacks.

Here’s a little guide on how to jack up a car.

Car Jack Stands are pretty essential, especially if you’re planning to work under the car for a long time. Many people also use a jack stand while storing a classic car.

Here’s how you can use the jack stands:.

This brings us to the end of our car jack guide. Hope you found this helpful and informative.

This article applies to the Acura MDX (2000-Present). Jacking up your Acura MDX is important and not just for DIY projects, but also for emergencies, such as a flat tire on the side of the freeway.

Any mistake in doing this procedure could be deadly. This guide will show you how to easily raise the car, safely secure it on jack stands, and how to bring it back to the ground properly.

Make sure you’re parked on flat ground, then use the front jack bracket to raise the front, or the rear jack bracket to raise the rear. On the front, you will find a little plate, so place your jack under it, then pump the jack until your car is at the desired height.

do the same to raise it. Make sure to raise it high enough for the jack stands to fit under it.

If you have the front jacked up, place the jack stands behind the front wheels, and if you’re jacking up the rear, place your jack stands in front of the rear wheels. Once your jacks are in place, very slowly lower your car until they rest on the jack stands.

After you finish doing whatever it is you needed to do under your car, it’s time to bring the car back to the ground. Use the same jack points in the center front or center rear, then raise the car off of the jack stands.

Figure 1 BMW E90 models have 4 solid rubber jacking pads, slightly behind front wheels and slightly in front of rear wheels. This photo shows the position of the rear jacking pad in relation to the wheel.

This is where you will place a jack stand to support vehicle when working with vehicle raised. If a jacking pad is missing, replace it before jacking vehicle, otherwise body damage can occur.

To jack vehicle, park vehicle on level solid ground. If removing a wheel, loosen wheel studs before jacking vehicle.

This will help to keep vehicle from unexpectedly rolling. Do not assume the parking brake or transmission will hold vehicle, wheel chocks are a must.

Figure 3 Raise vehicle slowly while monitoring jack and vehicle position. Watch that lifting pad from jack is properly aligned with jacking point on vehicle.

Slowly lower vehicle onto jack stand until full vehicle weight is supported. Check that jack stands are not tilting or moving when vehicle is lowered.

Figure 5 There is not enough room to jack and support vehicle in jack pad area at the same time. When using a hydraulic floor jack to lift rear of vehicle, place hydraulic floor jack under center of rear differential (green arrow).

Since you are lifting your vehicle from the center most point at rear, I suggest placing jack stands under both rear jack pads. Figure 6 Once you reach desired height, install jack stand at jack pad location to support the vehicle.

Check that jack stands are not tilting or moving when vehicle is lowered. You can leave the hydraulic jack under rear differential for added support.

Make sure all tools and parts are clear before lowering your vehicle.

If you’ve never had to jack up your vehicle before, it can seem like an overwhelming task. There are many spots under the car or truck that look like they might accommodate a jack but will do harm to the vehicle.

We researched the process in detail so that you’ll know for sure what you can and cannot do. You can safely jack up a car or truck by placing the jack on the axle.

Now that we know that you can jack up your vehicle on the axle, we’ll walk you through the process. You might also be curious about where you jack up a car to change the tire, or what is the best way to jack up a car.

The axles on your car or truck carry the burden of the vehicle’s entire weight. Because they sometimes have thousands of pounds distributed among the pair, they have to be pretty solidly made.

But getting your car or truck in the air isn’t a one-step process. When using a jack on the axle, you’ll want to make sure of a few things so that you avoid personal injury.

We’ve outlined the steps you should follow when putting jacks on the axles of any vehicle. As with any automotive repair job, if you have any reservations, consult with a professional before you start this task.

The jack that comes with your emergency tire replacement kit will be sufficient enough to get your vehicle in the air by its jack points. But lifting the entire front or rear end will require a lot more of a weight capacity than these gadgets can take.

Make sure that it can take the weight that is placed on the axle and does not exceed the weight your jack is rated to handle. If this weight is exceeded, disaster is sure to follow.

You can expect this same result if you were to overload your jack stands as well. Once you have a jack that is approved for the job, you’ll want to make sure the vehicle is not able to be moved.

Chock the tires that will remain on the ground. The last thing you’ll want is for the vehicle to begin to shift or roll.

The placement of the jack is key here. Avoid putting the jack anywhere BUT the axle.

Place the jack under the axle, firmly positioning it into place so that it will not slip once the vehicle is beginning to move up into the air. With slow and methodical movements, jack the vehicle into the air.

But first, you’ll need to set the jack stands in place. Put a pair of jack stands under the axle.

Once they are in place, slowly lower the jack so that the axle firmly fits on the jack stands. We know how to raise a truck with a jack under the axle.

If you get a flat, you’ll be looking for a different spot underneath the vehicle to place your jack. This spot is called a jack point.

The front jack points are located just behind the front set of tires. The rear jack points are located on either side of the vehicle just in front of the rear tires.

Getting a flat on the road can be a frustrating experience. If you’ve never changed a flat, it might seem like an overwhelming task.

Not all vehicles will be equipped with a spare tire. But for those that have them, you’ll be better off knowing how to change this vital part.

Tucked away with the spare tire will be a jack, jack handle, and lug nut wrench.

These won’t come with a new vehicle, but packing them in your emergency kit is always a good idea. They’ll come in handy when you are working on your vehicle on the side of the roadway.

Set the emergency/parking brake. Chock the tires in place with a rock or a piece of wood.

If it’s dark, use road flares to show that your car is at the roadside. Be sure that these flares are kept at least 10 feet from your vehicle.

Place the jack under the vehicle, setting it directly below the jack point by the tire that needs to be replaced. If you cannot find the jack point, consult your owner’s manual.

They will normally be marked, sometimes appearing as little notches. Use your lug nut wrench to loosen but not remove the nuts.

Slowly raise the car with the jack. You’ll want to get some good clearance between the ground and the bottom of the flat tire.

Remove the lug nuts. Place them aside in a safe space so they won’t get lost.

Finger tighten the lug nuts one at a time. Tighten one in this manner, then tighten one directly across from it in the same fashion.

Once all the lug nuts have been finger tightened, tighten them a bit more with your lug nut wrench. Don’t crank it down with all your might.

Put the car back on the ground by lowering the jack.

It’s best to do this when the car is on the ground, as the wheel won’t turn in tandem with the force of your tightening. Put the flat tire in your car, extinguish the road flare (if used), and put the rest of your supplies away.

If your spare tire is a donut, know that you will have some limitations. These tires should not be driven on for more than 60 miles.

Never drive more than 50 miles per hour on one of these tires.

Doing so requires careful steps to be taken so that you can avoid personal injury or damage to your vehicle. When changing a tire, it’s best to use the jack points to raise your car or truck.

We hope this post answered all of your questions. For additional information, we suggest reading the following automotive posts:

How Long Can You Leave A Car On Jack Stands.

See Related: Best High Lift Jacks For Raised Trucks. See Related: What Are The Most Common Auto Mechanic Injuries.

For Fun: The Roach Getting Into A Car Meme Craze. Disclaimer: it is hazardous to crawl under a raised car.

Follow all safety precautions. This article is only to share ideas, but you must evaluate the safety of each idea for your specific vehicle.

People have been crushed to death when a vehicle slipped and fell on them. No car repair is necessary to risk winning a Darwin award while fixing it.

Do it right. Joke: I prefer you jack it up soberly.

If you need to jack a car up extremely high, you may have to raise it in stages with multiple jacks. Additionally, the higher your vehicle is off the ground, the greater the risk of the car sliding off the jack.

Raising your car will be sone in two parts: First, you will jack your car with a floor jack, hydraulic jack or scissor jack. Secondly, you will then support your vehicle with jack stands.

If you can get the car raised more than a foot off of the ground, it makes it easier to remove a gas tank or put a trans jack underneath it for removing a transmission. Jack stands have a broader base, are more stable, and have a lower risk of collapsing than hydraulics and mechanical jacks have.

Give it the good ole dad shake, though, to make sure it is super safe. See Related: How to reach the backside of your engine.

This can be especially handy when you need to do something like slide a transmission out. Here is a straightforward system to safely lift the car off the ground.

In our article on the best jack stands for lifted trucks, we list some semi-truck jack stands. These are capable of supporting a hefty vehicle.

Investing in really big jack stands is a good idea if you have an SUV, RV or Truck that you need to raise off the ground. OTC makes some 48-inch jack stands.

Wood is a tried and true way to raise a jack. You can build out wooden platforms to be larger than the footprint of the jack you are using.

It is important to make them wide enough to gain plenty of stability. A 1:2 width: height ratio is an excellent guide.

Many folks keep 4×4″ or 6×6″ lumber around to provide an easy base for their jack stands. These seem to work well at about 2 feet long for the best stability.

An 8×8 railway block can be found at your local landscape supply store. Concrete blocks are the first thing people think of when getting a car lifted more than 6 inches off the ground.

Any sudden jolting of the car can cause the block to shatter. Cinder blocks work great for thieves looking to steal wheels but are not recommended for supporting a car while you crawl underneath it.

All right, moneybags. Here is the sign you are looking for to upgrade your garage.

These have a locking mechanism in place to keep the car from slipping down. They are undoubtedly the easiest and safest option.

A single post is most affordable and takes up very little room. A 2-post lift is easy to use but still stores well.

You may also need a 220v power supply, which will cost extra in an electrician’s labor to get it wired. While a drive-on lift is every home mechanic’s wet dream, a small scissor lift is an excellent starting point.

Many of them have added locking safety features to help protect the user. Most of these scissor lifts run $2,000 to $6,000, making them more affordable for the part-time mechanic.

Lube shops have a concrete pit that a car can be driven over. This makes it easy to access the underside of a vehicle by simply driving over the pit.

But I have seen mechanics dig out their garage, install a pit and properly concrete and drain the pit for easy access to the underside without the need to raise it. I rarely use car ramps, but they make it so easy to lift the front end of the car off the ground.

Install the jack stands in the rear to create a solid, stable, 4-point base for the car. The downside is that this is only good for raising a car about 6 inches off the ground.

My name is Zachary Drumm. This site allows me to test new tools, piddle around in the garage, and share the insights I get from flipping cars and houses.

If I’m not in the garage creating content, you’ll find me outside, running, canoeing, and traveling. My goal is to empower more people to be self-sufficient.

When we’re working on cars or filming DIY videos for our Youtube Channel we quite often have to use axle stands to support the car. For the sake of watch-ability, it’s a process that we just skip over in the videos but it’s such a safety-critical thing that we thought we’d show you how it’s done- How to support your car safely on Axle Stands.

If you’re doing any sort of work or inspection on a car that requires you to put part or all of your body underneath it, you need axle stands. Why.

We don’t mean to be sensationalist but most modern cars weigh in excess of a tonne and a half and your squishy human body simply can’t support that kind of weight. Jacks rely on mechanical or hydraulic mechanisms to raise the vehicle off the ground, over time it’s possible for these mechanisms to wear.

More commonly a jack might move on its wheels, causing the car to slip off or with scissor or bottle jacks the movement of the vehicle as it raises can put sufficient lateral load on the jack to cause it to topple over. Axle stands don’t have any hydraulic or mechanical moving parts to wear out.

Long story short – they’re a lot less likely to fail or fall over and as a result are a lot safer, so it’s a very good idea to use them. What you need:

First ensure your car is on flat, solid ground. Jacking your car on an incline or on soft grass/earth can put a lateral load on your jack/axle stands and cause them to fall over.

Look inside the door jambs for a sticker that looks like this: Check your owners manual for an explanation of what the weights mean for your specific car. On our Golf this is what the weights relate to:

To be on the safe side we’d recommend using jacks and axle stands that are rated in excess of the total vehicle weight rather than just the weight of the heaviest axle. Next, put the handbrake on, put the car into gear (or park if it’s an auto) and turn off the engine.

If you’re jacking the rear of the car, chock the front wheels and if you’re jacking the front, chock the rear wheels. Check your owners manual to find where the jacking points are located on your car.

Jack the car to the desired height. If you are able to place the axle stand at the jacking point that would be ideal but quite often there won’t be room for both the jack and the stand.

This will vary from car to car but ideally, you want to go for the strongest accessible point – either a chassis rail or a subframe or suspension mounting point. Don’t be tempted to use the engine sump or the floor pan as points for axle stands, despite being large flat surfaces they are not strong enough and you could do serious damage to the car or engine if you use these points to support the car.

Lower the jack slowly and carefully until the weight of the car is transferred to the stand. If you’re removing a wheel from the car you can also slide that underneath the sill as an extra safety measure.

If you are planning on doing some DIY repairs on your car like changing the oil, replacing a tire, or checking the undercarriage of your vehicle for damage, you most likely have to make use of a jack.

After lifting up the vehicle, it is advised to use jack stands or axle stands to keep the car in the air. It is not a smart idea to keep the car lifted up using the jack only, because it is not stable as a stand and the car may fall while you are underneath.

Make sure the car is on level ground and the e-brake has been engaged. You can even chock the wheels so that the vehicle doesn’t move.

Park the car on level ground. If you have to park on an incline, make sure to engage the hand brake and put the vehicle in first gear.

Block the wheels with a wooden block, bricks or wedges to prevent the car from accidently rolling while the jack is engaged. If you lift only the front of the car, then block the rear wheels, and if lifting the rear of the car, block the front wheels.

If there is no other option, then stabilise the jack with a wooden plank so that it stays in place. Ensure that the jack is designed to lift the weight of the car.

Check the owner’s manual for the placement of the jack when raising the vehicle. This is usually behind the front wheels or ahead of the rear wheels.

If the while rear or front needs to be lifted then use the jack at the centre position between the wheels using the frame or the suspension to lift the car. If you are making use of jack stands or axle stands, keep them near the point where the jack is resting so that hey can easily be placed.

Lift the car to the height that is required to change the tire, change the oil or repair any part of the undercarriage. The jack stands should be placed at the designated points to carry the weight of the car.

Once the jack stand is in place, slowly lower the jack so that the vehicle gradually starts to rest on the jack stand. When lifting the front or the rear of the vehicle, use two jack stands, one at either end and ensure that they are of the same height.

Once the jack stands are in place, give the car a little wobble to see if they are secure. Avoid the use of a wooden box or bricks instead of jack stands.

When you have finished replacing the tire or conducting repair work, use the jack to lift the car about an inch and remove the jack stands. Let the jack down slowly to bring the car to the ground.

You can even make use of car ramps if you don’t have access to a jack. The car will have to be driven up the ramps so that the vehicle sits a few inches above the ground.

The only disadvantage is that a tire cannot be changed using car ramps and they are also a little bit more expensive than jacks. Using the jack to lift or raise the car in a proper way is essential for DIY repair work at home, without the help of a trained mechanic.

Read 5 sign of low engine oil pressure. Using a car lift or ramp is usually reserved for use by mechanics in workshops.

We hope this guide helps you in a step-by-step way to learn how to raise a car using a jack and jack stands.

If you need to jack up the car, ensure to use a firm jacking up point. There must be enough room to jack up the car and for the jack stand to support the lifted car.

When you need to lift the entire front or rear of the car, choose a central point on the body frame or you can even use the suspension as a solid point. Ans.

An easy way to change a tire without a jack is to dig the soil beneath the flat tire. You can use a shovel to get the desired space underneath the tire to change it.

Loosen the tire nuts, change the spare tire, and tighten the nuts back in place. Now fill in the soil you have dug out until you can drive safely away.

When changing the oil of the car, do not use the jack itself to hold up the car. Make use of jack stands instead.

Once you are certain that the car is secure with jack stands, then you can proceed to move underneath the car and change the oil. At this point, do not lean against the car or rest on the engine bay when it is lifted up.

When you have changed the oil, use the jack to lift the car just enough to take away the jack stands, then lower the car gently to the ground with the use of the jack. Read how to check engine oil level.

There are lifting points on the car frame between the wheels, at the front and to the rear. If you need to lift the car at only one end, place the jack at the appropriate area of the frame or suspension and jack up the car until you can place jack stands beneath.

Jacking up the car from the side may not be a stable point and could be dangerous. You are better off jacking up the car from the front or rear.

Place the jack beneath the car at the appropriate space in the frame depending on which tire you need to change. Jack stands should be placed right near the jack at the lifting point.

Lift the vehicle using the jack. Place the jack stands underneath the vehicle near where the jack is lifting up the car.

Wriggle the vehicle a little to make sure the jack stands are secure. After changing the tire, use the jack to lift the vehicle, remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground using the jack.

Make sure the car is on level ground and lock the wheels using a chock or the e brake(hand brake). The release valve should be in the closed position to keep the jack ready to lift.

Pump the handle up and down until the saddle comes in contact with the frame of the vehicle. Keep raising the jack until you have enough space to place a jack stand.

Place the jack in between the rear wheels at the centre, preferably at the differential or at least on the axle. Avoid placing the jack under the rear bumper because this part will not be able to support the weight of the car.

Lift he vehicle at the designated point and place jack stands or axle stands underneath the axle. After you finish working on the raised vehicle, use the jack to lift the vehicle a little, remove the jack stands and then lower the vehicle using the jack.

Vehicles have designated points underneath the frame where the jack is supposed to lift the vehicle. Using the jack at another place on the frame may damage the vehicle because it may not be able to support the weight, or even worse, the jack may slip and the vehicle may fall.

Usually, the points are just behind the front wheel or just ahead of the rear wheel.

For most cars, the jacking point are reinforced parts of the frame with metal ribs designed to lift the vehicle safely. They would be four jacking points for the vehicle situated behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels.

The manual will specify the exact location that you have to use to jack up the vehicle. Ans.

Some cars are just too low for the jack to be placed underneath the car. One solution is to stack up a couple of pieces of wood in front of the tire.

This should give you enough space to fit the jack underneath the body. If it still isn’t high enough, stack up more pieces of wood to increase the height.

This article applies to the Toyota 4Runner, Tacoma, and Tundra (1984-Present). The Toyota 4Runner, Tundra, and Tacoma all have very similar jacking points.

It’s extremely important you take great caution when raising your truck. the last thing you want is a heavy machine falling on you.

Read on to learn how to jack up your Toyota. Only jack a vehicle on hard, level ground.

Determine which side you want to raise, the front or the rear. The best spot to raise the truck from is the center of the front crossmember under the motor if you are raising the front, and the center of the rear axle housing if you are raising the rear.

On the back, they go on the rear axle. Align your jack in the middle of the jacking point, then start raising it.

Slowly pump the jack until the car is raised to the appropriate height. Be sure to check the weight capacity on your jack.

Once they’re in place and extended, lower the jack very slowly until the vehicle rests on the jack stands. You will hear creeks as the car lays on the stands.

As an added safety measure, if you take a wheel off the truck, you can lay it on the ground under it, which also saves you from tripping over it as well. When you are done with the work and you want to get the vehicle back on the ground, the process is basically the reverse.

Lower the jack slowly until the vehicle is on the ground, and then slide the jack out.

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The guy in the black tracksuit put the jack under the car. In the foreground there is a warning sign.

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