Want to know the secret to perfectly fitting clothes. Easy – it’s your measurements.

Decide: Bra or no bra. Your bust level and circumference measurement will change with and without a bra on, so if you plan on wearing a bra with your finished garment, make sure you wear one during the measuring process.

Get help. Stand in front of a mirror and have someone on standby to assist you (especially for those back measurements.).

More specifically, use a flexible measuring tape (rather than a fabric one, as those tend to stretch out over time.). Check your posture.

When measuring, breathe normally and make sure the tape is comfortably fitted to the body. (Don’t suck in that tummy – you will just end up with a tight-fitting garment.

STEAL THIS TRICK. When I measure myself, I pin 1/8″ of wide elastic material to a tight spandex dress that I slip on.

This makes it easy to measure to the exact same place twice, so when you are determining your front waist length, you know the exact measurement. It also gives me a side seam reference so I can also determine my front and back waist length as well as my side seam length.

Ready to get started. These six measurements are the key reference points that most sewing pattern company size charts have – download a copy here for later reference.

NECK AND BUST. To measure your neck, pull the tape around the middle, coming from the back to the front.

To measure your bust, bring the tape around your back and around to the front. Pull it around the apex (or fullest) point of your bust.

If you have someone to help, you record the measurement at the front with your hand down at your sides.

WAIST AND HIPS. To measure your waist, don’t measure where your pants finish – this is not your natural waist.

Make sure the tape is even across the front and back and parallel to the floor.

FRONT WAIST LENGTH. Start measuring from the side base of your neck, at the top shoulder line, and going down towards your waist level passing over your bust point.

To measure bust depth, use the same starting point on the shoulder as your front waist length, measuring down to the apex of your bust point.

BACK WAIST LENGTH. This one is definitely a two person job, so call a friend and have them measure from the nape of the neck, down your spine and to your waist.

SHOULDER. This is your shoulder seam length.

If you have trouble determining your shoulder tip, find a garment in your closet that fits well and has a collar and sleeve. Then measure the shoulder length of the garment.

To measure under the arm, wrap your measuring tape around the fullest part of your arm above your elbow.

ARM LENGTH. Have your arm just slightly bent, and measure from the tip of your shoulder over the elbow to your wrist line.

ONE LAST TRICK. Another great way to utilize your own personal body measurements is to draft your own set of slopers.

I teach on online course Slopers 101 where I show you how to take these body measurements and draft your own bodice, sleeve, and skirt pattern from scratch. As a special offer to Martha Stewart readers, you can get 50% off registration using code MSPROMO50, register here to join me.

Whether you’re purchasing something online or having something altered, knowing your measurements – including your bust, waist, hip, seam, shoulder width and sleeve length – is key to having perfectly fitted clothing. And having your clothes sitting just right can really make the difference between looking good and looking great in a piece of clothing.

We’ll walk you through how to take each of your measurements in this comprehensive guide. Measurements are so often taken for granted, but they are a crucial part of so many aspects of life.

If you have an illness that requires medication, you must ensure you take the proper amount to get better. When you bake, you have to carefully distribute ingredients to ensure just the right taste and texture.

Similarly, getting your body’s measurements right helps your clothing do what it was intended to do: it gives you the recipe required to look your best. Measurements in clothing have become even more important in recent years, thanks to our growing love of online shopping.

Most people have a rough idea of what size they are (an 8, 10, 12, 14 for example, or a small, medium, or large). But to shop online without the fear that you’ll be forced to return your goods you must have more accurate knowledge of your size and shape.

The more you know about your body, the better you can dress it. Keep your measurements written down, and refer to them when shopping or ordering custom-made apparel.

The best way to get accurate measurements is to have them professionally taken. This is especially important for woman and bra sizes, which can be tricky to fit without being being tried on.

We’d be happy to take your measurements and provide you with the perfect fit to compliment your style and body type. But if you need to take some quick measurements at home, or if you want to check if your body has changed since your last professional measuring, here’s how to do it yourself.

For pants and slacks it requires height, waist size, and inseam measurements, while shirts focus on chest size, sleeve length and neck size. For women it’s a little more complicated.

But you’ll also want to measure your “natural waist”, or the slimmest part of your torso, and the fullest part of your legs and bust. If you plan on wearing collared shirts and blouses, add neck size and sleeve length to this list as well.

Dresses come in all kinds of lengths, however, from mini dresses and above knee dresses to below the knee, mid-calf, ballerina, ankle and floor length dresses. If you were measuring a mini dress that has sleeves you would start with the shoulder near the side of your neck and measure to mid-thigh.

As a guide…. Clothing charts are prolific in e-commerce stores, however they can often be confusing to decipher.

Look at the row or column that best corresponds with your measurements to identify the size you should order. Keep in mind that size charts tend to vary from store to store and that even with your measurements in hand, you may be surprised by the wide array of sizes.

Now you should be able to see your regular clothing size for Australian fit clothing, so you can use the below chart to compare that with sizes from other countries.

Even if they do vary, having your measurements handy to you when ordering will put you in significantly greater stead for online shopping, as well as when creating custom perfection. Hi, I wanted to know how to measure the Top Coat on a woman.

Hi Bill, Best thing for you to do is visit or call a Looksmart store and speak to one of our experienced tailors for advise. Alternatively, you can visit your nearest store for measurement services.

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Height is a tricky one to do alone. You might find it helpful to mark a point on the inside of a door frame and then measure to that point afterward stepping away.

Bust is the circumference around your ribcage at the fullest part of your bust. Again, remember to breath.

This isn’t a measurement listed on your pattern but a helpful fitting technique. Depending on the amount of difference between your high bust and your full bust you may benefit from a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) or a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA).

Some people refer to it as the narrowest point of your torso, but that’s not the case for most figures. The easiest way to find your waist is to place the tape measure, or a piece of string if more comfortable, around where you think your waist is and then start to bend and move, the tape measure will want to sit in the perfect position so let it move up or down if it’s pulling that way.

Neck to waist is a handy one for working out if the bodice waist point on your pattern will fall at the right place. Especially if you’ve just located it in the previous step.

If you’re struggling to reach, try our handy tip with the door frame again to mark your body points and then measure when you step away. Hip measurements aren’t always taken where your hips are physically found on your body.

This could be around your hip or your rear. If you’re seated for long periods of time or are a wheelchair user, you should take your measurements in a seated position.

You wouldn’t want to make something form fitting and discover it’s tight and uncomfortable as soon as you sit down in it.

Neck measurement– measure around your neck gently and remembering to breath in and out. Now you can use this to check shirt collars.

Take a piece of string and measure from front waist, to back waist and making sure your string isn’t riding up. If making “low rise” trousers, measure to the point you’d like them to sit.

Using your string again, measure each half individually. Thigh measurement – Another helpful measurement when you’re making trousers.

Shoulder point to shoulder point – last but not least, you may have a suspicion that you are wide or narrow shouldered from having straps that regularly sit in the wrong place or tops that fit everywhere except the shoulders.

Taking the time to measure yourself accurately can make it much easier to order the correct size while shopping online. You don’t need to go to a tailor or try on clothes in person to find clothes that fit: The Good Housekeeping Institute Textiles Lab pros are here with all the tips and tricks to measure yourself properly at home.

The most accurate tool for measuring yourself at home is a soft measuring tape or tailor’s tape. GH pros love this one, and it’s not expensive.

Before getting started, wear lightweight, fitted clothing and intimates that aren’t heavily padded. As you measure yourself, keep the tape level all around your body, parallel to the floor.

Try taking a deep breath, sitting down and standing back up to check that the tape isn’t constricting you as you move and breathe — this ensures that clothing of that size won’t be too tight. Some pros opt to stick a finger or two inside the measuring tape to avoid buying garments that are too fitted for their preference.

The bust measurement refers to the widest part of your chest. It’s best to keep your bra on for the measurement unless you are specifically shopping for a bra or a garment you’ll wear braless.

For men, it’s the same concept: measure straight across the broadest part of your chest. Some size charts include an underbust measurement (also called band, chest or ribcage).

Most size charts and sewing patterns say “waist” to refer to your natural waist, which is not at your belly button. To find your natural waist, stand straight up and bend side to side, finding where your body creases.

For many, it is the smallest point, but it may not be.

For an accurate measurement, make sure your feet are straight below your hips and not sprawled apart. Remember to sit down and stand up while taking your hip measurements to make sure you’re not pulling the tape too tight.

Bust, hips and waist are the most common measurements you’ll find when shopping for clothes, but if you’re buying hats, jeans or other specialized types of clothing, a few more measurements may come in handy. When shopping online, match your measurements to the brand’s (not the retailer’s) size chart, as every company bases its sizing on different measurements.

Read reviews online to see how other people rate the item’s fit. Our pros love sites that allow customers to upload photos, so you can see how the pieces look on different body types.

Emma Seymour (she/her) is a senior product analyst at the Good Housekeeping Institute’s Textiles, Paper and Apparel Lab, where she has led testing for luggage, pillows, towels, tampons and more since 2018. She graduated from Cornell University with a bachelor of science in fiber science and apparel design and a minor in gerontology, completing research in the Body Scanner Lab on optimizing activewear for athletic performance.

Every sewing project starts with taking measurements. It’s even more important to take your own body measurements for sewing clothes.

One of the first steps in sewing clothes is selecting the right pattern size. Even if your body measurements don’t exactly match one of the pattern sizes, fewer adjustments will be needed if you get the correct size at the beginning of your project.

In reality, each body is different. For example, even if you do wear a size 8, a general size 8 may never fit you perfectly or in all dimensions.

Of course, accuracy is important in taking body measurements. We have to be honest here and accept the reality of our bodies.

Besides, if you have a problem, the first step in correcting it is acknowledging it. In this post, I’ll present how to take the body measurements that you’ll need regardless if you sew with one of the available commercial patterns or draft a pattern yourself.

There are three main reasons for taking accurate body measurements for sewing: I can’t stress enough that your measurements have to be honest.

Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links.

The essential tool you need to measure yourself accurately is a measuring tape. Choosing a measuring tape may seem like a simple task, but it’s important to have a tape that doesn’t stretch, or you may end up with distorted results.

In those instances, plastic tapes will stretch. The best is to choose a fiberglass tape and verify from time to time that it’s still good.

Some of them are only in centimeters, while some of them have only inches. And others have both inches and centimeters.

Perhaps, you will be interested in reading my other tutorial: All you need to know about a measuring tape for sewing.

I think they called them DUAL SIDED, and I don’t see them for sale often. I bought mine in New York, and I found one online, but it isn’t always available.

If you’re looking for a body measurement chart specifically for women, I’ve got a free PDF that you can download from my Resource Library. This chart includes all of the measurements you’ll need, including bust, waist, hips, etc.

These tips will help make taking full body measurements for sewing easier and more accurate. Loose, thick, and bulky clothes will cause your measurements to be inaccurate.

If underwear-only is not an option, wear tight-fitting clothes like leggings, a tank top, or a thin, tight t-shirt. Always wear underwear and a bra for measurements if the garment is designed to be worn with them because the body aligns differently without them.

Stand in your normal position. Don’t try to force a position that’s more rigid or straight than you normally have.

Hold the measuring tape against your body, but not too tightly. When measuring the upper part of the body, breathe normally.

NOTE: The tape should not make an indentation in any soft part of the body. Don’t add anything to the numbers on the measuring tape.

They are not the measurements of the pattern. What you measure is what you get.

For example, if you see that the number is 26 ¼ inches, you should write down 26” or 26.5”. Or, if you see 39 15/16” (many measuring tapes have 16 parts of an inch), then write down 40”.

This may not be possible, but having an experienced person help when getting proper body measurements for sewing clothes can be extremely helpful. If you can’t get help, you will need to supervise closely to ensure you’re doing it correctly.

Take your time and do it right, or you’ll end up with garments that don’t fit, which is a waste of time and money. It’s also good to take measurements both in the morning and in the evening.

Yes, you read that right. I don’t remember where I read this, but it was funny.

Yes, indeed.

Until my girls were in their late teens, I had a very hard time making them stand still long enough to take body measurements for sewing clothes. Of course, when they were in their late teens, there were other problems because none of the patterns I wanted to use were cool enough.

If you prefer to watch the tutorial on how to take body measurements, go to my YouTube Channel (or watch below. ).

The general consensus is that there are 3 basic measurements that you need: bust, waist, and hips. Is this enough.

In reality, you might need extra measurements (specific for each pattern), depending on the pattern you use. For example, if you want to draft your own pattern, you will have to take many more different measurements.

Measure around the fullest part of the bust. For women, this would be the absolute fullest part of the body.

Stand straight with arms hanging by sides in a relaxed and natural stance. Make sure the tape is straight and does not sag at the back.

Also, make sure the tape is not pressing your breasts. You want the measuring tape parallel to the floor for this measurement.

It’s still true, barely.

The natural waist is usually above the level of the belly button. Sometimes it may be difficult to find the natural waistline, especially after a certain age.

Here’s a tip: tie a ribbon, string, or elastic around the body (not very loose or very tight) where you guess the waist is. The ribbon will fall naturally into place after a couple of movements, and you can measure around it.

Once you have determined the natural waist and have an elastic/ribbon around it, leave it in place until the end of the session because other measurements will be taken to or from the waistline. Many length measurements start (or end) at the waistline, so knowing exactly where it is, is absolutely critical.

NOTE: Finding the natural waistline can be challenging for both older women and young children. I can say that this is also the most difficult measurement because many women want to suck in their bellies.

Take your real waistline if you want to breathe, eat, bend over and sit down in your skirt. They usually say that you have to keep your measuring tape parallel to the floor, but sometimes it’s just not accurate.

For example, the front is sometimes lower than the back (check this in the mirror). And in other cases (if you have a bigger tummy), the front may be a little higher than the back.

The hip measurement is supposed to be the widest measurement around your bottom. You will have to determine the exact point for your body because it’s not the same for everyone.

But again, it’s rare that the widest part of our bottoms aligns parallel with the floor. Your stomach can protrude in a different place than your buttocks.

But there is another, more accurate method. Take a rectangular, rigid piece of paper and wrap it over your bottom.

A measuring tape is one of the most useful sewing tools and is indispensable in any sewing room. Today, a tape measure on the tailor’s neck is the same iconic professional attribute as a doctor’s stethoscope.

Tape measure for sewing definition2. Uses of a tape measure in sewing3.

How to buy a measuring tape for sewing5. Tape measure for sewing types6.

Sewing tape measure PRINTABLE CHART. The tape measure for sewing is usually a soft and flexible strip/ribbon with linear-measurement markings made mostly from reinforced polyester or fiberglass.

A tape measure is used primarily for taking body measurements, as well as for drafting patterns, measuring fabric, laying out patterns on fabric, specifying the length of a garment, checking the size of hems, measuring curves and corners, and measuring curtains, quilts … and much more. It’s simply necessary for a seamstress to have a measuring tape at hand.

I have a detailed video sewing tutorial on how to use a measuring tape for taking body measurements. Check it out.

As you may know, there are two main systems for measuring length – the Imperial System of Measurements where things are measured in yards, feet, and inches, and the Metric System of Measurement which uses meters, centimeters, and millimeters.

Many in the USA have old-world roots and are used to centimeters/meters for measurements even if most patterns are in inches. I live in the USA and I find myself using the metric system quite often because all Burda magazine patterns (which I love.

So we have to live and work with both metric and imperial systems of measurements and try to adjust as much as possible. The main issue with the imperial system is the absence of decimal fractions.

Let’s take an example: I have a piece of fabric 58” in width. I need to make 10 pleats using this piece of fabric.

Suffice to say that the pleats should be exactly 5.8” apart, but that does not translate well into inch fractions and if we take the closest approximation (5 13/16) this means one of the spaces will be in fact only 5 9/16. In time this is no longer an issue and you get used to it.

I was brought up with the metric system and when I saw a tape measure in inches (for the first time) I look at it with real bewilderment. So in this guide, I want to answer the question “how to cope with both systems and transform measurements from one to another” or to be more specific “how to read a tailor’s tape measure”.

I use tapes that are marked in both inches and cm for convenience but since I use often Burda patterns I also have some older tapes that are marked only in centimeters. I prefer tapes that are marked on both sides with both metric and imperial units like this one here and all my newer tapes are like this.

Honestly, I don’t know.

A centimeter is divided into 10 equal parts – millimeters and one can express fractions with a decimal point (2.3cm – 2cm 3mm or 23 mm). The markings on it are applied with the main divisions with an interval of 1 inch and intermediate – ⅛ or 1/16 in.

And the decimal point doesn’t make real sense for inches. The image below presents a section of tape divided into 1/8” subdivisions, the multiples of ¼” and ½” have longer marks.

I have seen measuring tapes (for sewing) with divisions marked for ½, ¼, 1/8, and 1/16 but no finer.

It is so easy to make a mistake. The image below shows a tape with 1/16” divisions, even more difficult to count.

I can’t. Let me give you more examples.

It comes out as 4 whole inches plus 5 little marks, then that is 4 and 5/16 inches.

But we will not say that the distance is 3 2/16 inches, we usually say 2/16 as ⅛, right. So our measure for the buttonholes will be 3 ⅛ inches.

Another example: let’s say we want to make a hem and it comes out as 1 whole inch plus 4 little marks, then that is 1 and 4/16 inches which we will convert to 1 ¼ inch.

We convert ⅝ to 16ths – that is 10/16, right. Then we have to count 10 little marks on the tape measure – that’s how we find ⅝ on the tape measure.

How to buy a measuring tape for sewing. This is not difficult, but there are a few details that you must pay attention to.

The fabric measuring tape must be strong, but flexible, not twisted or stretched, and not easily torn.

Modern professional tapes are made of fiberglass and NEVER stretch. When choosing a tape measure for sewing, remember that it should be soft and flexible.

Choose a tape measure that scale begins directly from the edge of the tape. If the beginning of the scale is indented from the edge, you will need to constantly monitor that this indent doesn’t fall into the measurement.

We also recommend that you select a tape with the scale that starts with a unit 1 at both ends: then no matter what end of the tape you take, the beginning of the scale will always be in your hands.

Accuracy is a basic requirement for any measuring tool. The markings must be bright and clear so you can see the numbers very well.

A measuring tape scale can be applied both in inches and centimeters. A double scale can be useful to you if you often sew with patterns from magazines or websites of countries where the metric scale is adopted.

The next thing to look for when buying a measuring tape is the color. Give preference to bright colors – so it will be easier for you to look for it in the creative mess which usually happens in the sewing room where you cut fabric and sew.

What about you. But if it’s bright pink it’s much easier to see.

This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and use myself.

If a measuring tape is torn, stretched, or rubbed, do not try to repair it BECAUSE its scale indicators may become inaccurate. This sewing tool is inexpensive, so it’s better to immediately purchase a new one.

Some tapes are marked only in centimeters and millimeters. 2.

Some have both inches and centimeters. Personally, I much prefer this type of measuring tape for sewing.

All you need to do is read the inch side corresponding to the number in centimeters. If we have to convert for example 66 cm into inches, looking at the image below we can see the result is 26 inches.

Two-sided tape measure. To me, this is the best tape measure because the scale starts with a unit 1 at both ends: then no matter what end of the tape you take, the beginning of the scale will always be in your hands.

But in the USA most stores don’t have the two-sided tape (I mean the tape with unit 1 on BOTH ends) with inch/cm markings on both sides. I bought mine in New York and I found one online.

I don’t like to lose a lot of time searching for the proper end to start measuring. 5.

The most common length is 60″ (152 cm) but longer tapes twice that size exists.

So when I am making simple patterns (like this pattern for shorts for example, or this pattern for a simple top) I am just using the width of my measuring tape to draw seam allowances in no time flat.

The most common material for such tapes are reinforced polyester and fiberglass which I prefer because it doesn’t stretch. The narrow ed.

It is important to know how to take sewing measurements for your body correctly so you can choose the pattern size that will give you the best fit. Even a small error can mean you cut the wrong size from your pattern, which can be a disaster in fitted garments.

Different designers use different sewing measurements for their sizing charts and pattern making, so it is important you are able to measure yourself or your kids accurately in order to choose the correct size.

Some countries or cultures have a preference for tighter clothing, and some prefer looser styles. This is called ease in clothing.

Many of the Big 4 sewing pattern companies are using sizing charts designed years ago, while average body shapes and sizes have changed considerably over the years. Children’s sizing seems to be far more consistent across designers than adults, but you should still check your pattern chart before cutting the size you think you need.

There is no right or wrong. Designers have to pick something.

If you are looking for sewing conversion measurements, see my article on Metric and Imperial Measurements for Sewing. The body measurements for sewing that you will generally need are:

The most common are the chest, waist, and hips. There is no point in measuring your ankle or bust if you are sewing a mini skirt.

Loose clothing with lots of ease only needs minimal sewing measurements taken also. A loose dress will probably only have you measure your chest and hips as it is not fitted.

Take any shoes off and get your subject to simply stand up against a wall. Measure from the floor to the top of the head.

Spin around and then measure where it touches.

Another consideration when looking at envelope covers is that models are taller than the average person. If a dress or skirt hits the model at the knee, then it will probably be below the knee or look a couple of inches longer for most people.

Measure around the fullest part of the bust and continue all around the back. This is generally only specified in women’s patterns and is measured directly under the armpits, around the front to the back.

(Don’t make it too tight.). Move around a bit, and it will settle at your natural waist, which is the smallest part of your torso.

Measure around the elastic at this point with the measuring tape. This is often referred to as the natural waist.

For younger kids who don’t yet have a defined waist, just measure around the front and back at the belly button level. If you tilt your head forward, you will notice that one bone at the back of your neck sticks out more than others.

You will mainly find this measurement listed on leotard patterns rather than dresses or tops.

This measurement is generally only important for pants and leotards. Measure the widest part of the hip.

It is measured from the crotch, straight down to the ankle, which is where most pants finish.

Once again, this is a pants sewing measurement. Measure from the waist down to the ankle.

All designers use different measurement charts and sources for their sewing patterns and clothing designs. But if you need somewhere to start as a comparison, here are the charts from the Treasurie sewing patterns.

Here are the Women’s sizing charts for Treasurie sewing patterns. Now you know how to take sewing measurements, keep a record of yours for quick reference when sewing.

This blog has hundreds of articles to help you learn to sew. Here are a few suggestions for beginners.

When taking your measurements, always use a cloth measuring tape*. For the most accurate results, have someone else measure you.

Remember to wear proper undergarments. If you wear a special support bra for riding, your measurements should be taken with that bra on.

Measure across the back from the corner of one shoulder to the corner of the other shoulder. For this measurement, I recommend measuring a jacket you already have that fits properly.

Measure around the fullest part of the bust. This measurement is taken above the band of your bra, and may not be the same as your bra size.

The natural waist is below the rib cage and usually above the bellybutton. Do not take this measurement around the waistband of your clothing.

Do not take this measurement around the waistband of your clothing, or where your hands fall when you “put your hands on your hips.”. With one arm down at a slight angle, start from the corner of the shoulder and measure down to where you’d like your sleeve to end.

Just lay it flat and measure from the corner shoulder seam to the end of the cuff. This measurement is taken from the base of the neck down to where you would like the jacket hem to end.

*If you don’t have a cloth measuring tape, you can use a piece of non-stretchy string or fabric. Simply mark where your measurements fall on the string and then measure that length with a metal measuring tape, ruler or other item of known measurement (a standard piece of paper, dollar bill, etc.).

Taking accurate body measurements is one of the most important skills you need to start sewing. Whether you are an experienced seamstress or just starting out, knowing how to measure correctly is crucial to the outcome of your project.

Now take out your tape measure and take the following measurements.

Bust: Measure around the fullest part of the bust, ensuring the tape is level and not too tight. Underbust: Measure directly under the bust.

Hip: Measure around the widest part of the hips. Length: Measure the desired length of the garment from the shoulder down.

Bust Point: Measure from the shoulder to the fullest point of the bust. Underbust Level: Measure from the shoulder to where the bra sits under the bust.

Skirt Length: For a skirt, measure from the waist to the desired length (knee, above knee, below knee, or floor length). Sleeve Length: Measure from the shoulder edge to the desired length of the sleeve (short, three-quarter, or wrist length).

Wrist: Measure around the wrist for long sleeves. In this article I will cover:

There is an ideal body measurement for men and women. Your body measurement will have differences from these ideal body measurements, of course.

Read on.

Earlier I used to take measurements according to how much loose or tight I wanted the dress to be.

Since then, I have learned about ease too.

Very loose, slightly loose, fitted, tight – options are many.

Write it down.

This is my opinion and very much dependent on personal preference. Ease chart – you can add your ease according to this.

Read more on ease in clothing here.

Under this system, you will be taking the basic measurements.

For making the pants, you will be taking just the waist round, hip round, full length, and the bottom flare.

This is a more elaborate system. Under this system, for a jacket you will take more detailed measurements like armscye depth, across the chest, over shoulder, etc.

Here is a detailed list of measurements that professionals take. You can use it as is needed.

For an elaborate dress like your wedding gown all of these measurements may have to be taken, but for some other, not all. Approximate Heel Height to be worn with garment.

For men : Neck round, Overbust, chest round, Natural waist, Across Shoulder from back, End of shoulder to neck, Bicep (around), Elbow round, wrist around, Arm length (shoulder to wrist), Center back (neck to wrist). For women : Other than the measurement for men, Under Bust, Elbow round, Bust (Nippel-to-nippel), Bust Depth(Front shoulder neck-to-nipple).

Full length( side length) Leg length (Inseam length) Waist round, Seat round ( Hip round) Bottom measure. The professionals always take the measurements in a particular order.

It is in this order for the vertical measurements, I assume. 1 Body length.

Waist length. 3.

Armlength. then the horizontal measurements.

Bust round. 2.

Hip round. 4.

5 Arm round. Neck round – Measure around the base of the neck (slightly loose.

Shoulder to shoulder – This is measured from shoulder bone on one side to the other side shoulder bone. Bust round.

Do not pull the tape too tight or hold it loose. It should sit smugly, without it slipping off.

Wrap the measuring tape around the smallest part of your torso at the waist. This is mostly just above the belly button ( about an inch above).

Hip length – Measure from shoulder to hip. For women, In ready to wear clothes it is usually 7 inches from the waist.

It can be upto 9 inches for someone who is bigger or taller. For men, take this measurement 8 inches from waist.

Hip round – Measure around the hips ( where it is the broadest). Check out the post How to measure your hips.

Sleeve round- Measure around the arms where the sleeve should end. Length of the garment-Measured from the shoulder (close to the neck, where it is highest) to where you want the garment hemline.

If it is a pant or skirt, measure from where you want it to be tied at the waist, to the hemline you want.

Where your sleeve should end. If the sleeve length is past the elbow you should bend the arm slightly when taking the measurement.

A comfortable neck depth for the back is from 1 inch to 3 inches, but you can go as deep as you want. For the front neckline, do not go too deep ( for reasons you know).

again, individual preference and also depends on the pattern.

This is a very close width and you can add a 1/2 inch for a relaxed neck.

The armhole depth refers to the measure from the back nape of the neck to the bust line. This is taken according to the bust round, or as per the measurement you have made on the body.

More on the armscye and measuring the armhole here. Trouser length – From waist to 1 1/4 cm above the ground/floor (for full-length pants).

Inseam – Measured on the inside leg from the crotch to where you want the hemline ( to 1 1/4 cm above the ground/floor ( for full-length pants)). More on measuring inseam here.

Hold the tape at the center of the front waist. Take the tape to the back of the waist between your legs.

Another way is to sit comfortably in a chair and measure from the waist to the place where your bottom rests on the chair. I prefer the second way.

Upper waist round – This is taken just under the bust. Needed for making bras, bralette tops, etc.

Waistband round – Decide where you will wear your skirt or waistband. Wrap the tape loosely around the spot.

Bust length – Measure from shoulder to bust point. (For fitted blouses – sari blouses).

Usually, for a person with a bust round of 36 inches or more, this is taken as 4 inches on a folded pattern, and for less than 36 inches, take this as 3.5 inches. This is needed for placing darts.

This is usually needed for making jackets, and coats. Slit cut – Decide on where you want the slit of your tunic or top to be on the side seams.

Calf round – Measure under the knees. Ankle round – Measure around the ankle – this is needed for leggings, pants, etc.

Guide C-209. Revised by Insook Ahn.

Author: Assistant Professor, Department of Family and Consumer Sciences, New Mexico State University. (Print Friendly PDF).

(Photo by cottonbro from Pexels). 1.

Leave a tape or ribbon tied snugly around the waist while taking other measurements. 2.

Also record the distance from the waist down to the tape, located at the fullest area. 3.

Thigh–Just below crotch, around leg. 5.

Calf–Measure widest part below knee. 7.

This measurement is necessary for narrow tapered pants. Be sure to allow enough room for the foot to slip through.

Side length to knee–Measure from the waist to the knee. 9.

Crotch. a.

Measure from waist to top of flat surface.

Length–Determine measurement from front waist to center of body and from center of body to back waist.

Description. YourMeasurement.

Total Needed. PatternMeasurement.

Waist. As tight as you wear waistbands.

Abdomen. 3–4 inches below waist over fullest part of abdomen.

Fullest part. At least 2–4 inches.

Thigh. Fullest part of upper leg.

Inches down from waistline. Knee.

At least 1 inch. Inches down from waistline.

Standing–from waistline in front–under crotch–to waistline in back. Indicate front to center and center to back measurements.

1/2–1 inch. Back.

Crotch depth. Seated–follow contour of body from waistline to hip, hold tape straight from hip to chair.

1/2 inch if under36 inches hip. 1 inch if over 38 inches hip.

Right. Slack length.

Right. C-205: Selecting a Pattern Size for Perfect Fitpubs.nmsu.edu/_c/C205/.

C-221: Zippers Made Easypubs.nmsu.edu/_c/C221/. Original author: Susan Holder, Extension Clothing Specialist, and edited by Darlene Dickson, 4–H Youth Specialist.

Insook Ahn is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Family and Consumer Sciences at NMSU. Her area of expertise is in creative fashion design, sustainable design, functional design, and CAD.

To find more resources for your business, home, or family, visit the College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences on the World Wide Web at pubs.nmsu.edu. Contents of publications may be freely reproduced, with an appropriate citation, for educational purposes.

For permission to use publications for other purposes, contact [email protected] or the authors listed on the publication. New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator.

Department of Agriculture cooperating. Revised June 2021 Las Cruces, NM.

When it comes to your suit or tuxedo, you probably know that fit is important, and you don’t want to sabotage your look by taking the wrong measurements. Perhaps you’re renting the traditional brick-and-mortar way, and trying to decide whether you should learn how to measure for a suit yourself, or trek to the mall to have your inner thigh measured by a surly sales associate.

Or maybe you’re buying a suit online. That can feel risky, and you wouldn’t be the first person to stand in front of your full-length mirror, mouth agape, asking yourself “What is my suit size.

” We can’t help you with the second part of your literal self-reflection, but we can help you find the suit size you need. The most exciting part.

From the basics (“How should a suit fit. ” or “How should a tux fit.

”), we’ve got the answers. Read on to find your fit.

Before You MeasureUnderstanding Suit SizesHow Should a Suit Fit.

Before you dig in to find your fit and measure for a suit, there are a few things you should understand about how to read suit sizes. Without getting too deep in the weeds, let’s get you up to speed.

The numbers are the chest size of the jacket (not to be confused with your chest measurement, which is different—more on that later), and usually they’re offered in even sizes. Jacket LengthJackets typically come in short (S), regular (R), and long (L) lengths, although some brands offer extra short (XS) and extra long (XL) lengths as well.

Pant SizesThis one’s tricky. Typically, the first number on a label for dress pants or denim is the waist size, while the second is the length size (AKA the inseam).

That’s because with traditional suiting, you’ll have the pants hemmed to your desired length. More often than not, waist sizes tend to come in even sizing (32, 34, 36, etc.).

Casual Clothing vs. FormalwearIf your go-to jeans are a size 32 waist, you’d probably assume you wear the same size in suit pants, but that’s rarely the case.

That means your suit pants, which have less give, will likely need to be a larger size. Similarly, the fabrics used for suit pants don’t bunch up as easily as casual fabrics.

When you try on a 32 length pair of suit pants, you’ll probably find them to be too long. To recap: Suit pants fit tighter and longer than casual pants in the same size.

Your favorite suit jacket might be (for example) a 38L and fit you perfectly, but a 38L in another brand could be too tight or too short. This shouldn’t stop you from shopping a variety of brands, but it’s important to keep it in mind if you shop online—ordering the tag size may not equate to an identical fit.

Go back to Table of Contents.

If it helps, think about the fit of a suit like you’d think about eggs: not everyone loves them the same way, so unless you specify, you might get scrambled when you’re expecting sunny side up. Classic vs.

Slim vs. Skinny FitsEach brand will interpret fit types in different ways, but generally, there are some assumptions you can make about classic, regular, slim and skinny fits.

Rather than having a contoured cut, you’ll find the waist of the jacket and leg of the pants to have a pretty even cut without much tapering. This fit had its heyday in the ’80s and ’90s, but some brands offer a modern version of the classic fit that’s just a little more generous in the seat and thigh of the pants, and in the arms of the jacket.

Skinny FitA “skinny” fit is probably going to mean what you think it means: it will contour your body closely. This probably isn’t a great fit if you’re planning on… I don’t know, doing the YMCA or entering a limbo contest.

But if you’re going for a model-in-a-magazine look, skinny fit probably checks all the boxes. Just don’t plan on lifting any boxes.

Slim FitA “slim” fit offers the best of both worlds: a contoured cut that looks great, but with just enough room to shake your groove thing. It’s also timeless, so a very safe choice for fit if you’re purchasing a suit.

Plus, the leg of the pant will taper down to your shoe, creating a slimming effect. A Note on Atypical Body TypesEvery body type is unique, but some of us are so unique that it becomes difficult to wear the most accessible brands.

But that can get expensive, and off-the-rack is a non-starter. Instead, buy or rent suit (or tux) separates, and talk to your tailor about the best ways to adjust the fit of the garments you own.

Off-the-RackWhen you buy a suit off the rack, you’re buying a suit with a “standard drop”—the difference between the chest size of your jacket minus the waist size of your pant. The standard drop is 6, which means if you wear a size 38 jacket, the pants will be a size 32 waist (38 – 32 = 6).

If that’s you, consider having a garment custom made, shop for (or rent) separates, or plan on taking your off-the-rack garment to a tailor for fine-tuning. What can a tailor adjust.

If you rent a suit, you’ll probably be limited to temporary sleeve length or pant length hem adjustments. If you own the suit, you have more options, but there are some parts of a suit you shouldn’t touch.

If the suit seems to be your size but something’s just a little off, do tailor:→ Jacket Sleeve Length→ Pant Length Hem→ Jacket Waist→ Pant Waist→ Pant Taper. When in doubt, ask your tailor what’s realistic, and manage your expectations accordingly.

Try On Suits In a StoreGood old trial and error. Trying on suit separates is a great way to get a ballpark estimate of your sizes.

While this method still requires you to head into a store, you’re not in the (sometimes) awkward position of asking an associate to take your measurements. You’ll also want to pay attention to whether the garment that fits you best is a slim or classic fit.

Finally, make sure to write down (or email yourself) the sizes—jacket chest size, jacket length, pant waist size, and, if applicable, inseam length. Go back to Table of Contents.

We know what you’re about to say—something along the lines of “I’ll mess it up and end up with a bad fit.” This would be a valid concern, but what you may not realize is that the days of asking a friend to measure you for a suit are numbered. Proprietary fit and sizing technology has come a long way, making it easier than ever to find your suit sizes.

But then again… so has lining up outside of department stores with bellies full of turkey and carbs to save $75 on a HDTV. There has to be a better way.

And if we’re being honest, neither method always results in a great fit. Instead, we ask simple questions that most people already know the answers to: height, weight, age, body shape, and shoe size.

If not, that’s fine. Then, we use data gathered from hundreds of thousands of customers to calculate the most probable sizes for your perfect fit.

In fact, you can try it out now, for free. How to Measure for a Suit Using a Tape MeasureMaybe the old way has worked for you before.

Whatever the case, you’ll need accuracy if you’re using a tape measure to measure for a suit. These are the most common measurements you’ll need to take and how to take them.Need a tape measure.

A “normal” spirometer reading depends on a few factors, including your: Your healthcare provider will use these characteristics to determine a typical reading for your demographic.

Once you’ve taken your test, your healthcare provider will compare your score against the typical reading for your demographic. A normal reading is 80% or higher than the typical demographic reading.

These may include: You won’t know your spirometry test results right after you finish.

You should expect to get your test results within a few days. Spirometry test results help your healthcare provider determine:

Reach out to your healthcare provider if you don’t hear from them with your results after a few days. You may have to schedule lung function tests every year if you have a chronic (long-lasting) lung disease.

See your healthcare provider if you notice any changes in your breathing. The changes might not be serious, or they might be a symptom of a lung condition.

Spirometry isn’t painful. A proper diagnosis can help you and your healthcare provider determine a healthcare plan that enables you to improve or maintain your quality of life.

Get ready to track your progress. We like using a measuring tape more than the scale.

Muscle is denser than adipose tissue (“fat”), so you could actually weigh the same, but be much tighter and more toned. Taking your measurements along with pictures means you’ll see your real results.

Whether you want to lose weight, add muscle, tone up, or just become healthier, before pictures are the best way to see your transformation. Sure, the scale will tell us the number of pounds we’ve lost, but how can we tell if we’ve sculpted abs, developed beautiful strong arms or toned up our legs.

We’ve seen so many before and after photos and the most beautiful part about them is we can actually tell the difference in how you FEEL. You’re beaming with confidence and happiness.

When taking before and after photos, it’s best to use a digital camera or your phone. Have a friend or loved one that you feel comfortable with snap your pic.

Wear your favorite bikini or workout gear. Pick something that is form fitting, that shows your body.

Take your picture in a room with as much light as possible. Natural light coming in from a large window is best.

Take your before and after pictures in front of a plain white wall or a solid background. Avoid taking your pictures in your bathroom, your closet, or places that have a lot going on in the background.